Sicily, an island full of charm, culture and beautiful landscapes, is surprisingly accessible by public transportation. Although many advised me to rent a car, I discovered that you can also largely explore parts of the island perfectly without a car. In this article I share my experiences and tips on how to easily travel around Sicily by bus, train and ferry and discover the most beautiful places, even if you don’t want or can’t rent a car.
Sicily itinerary by public transport
Palermo
Palermo, the capital of Sicily is one of the best places to start your journey. You can also easily travel to Palermo by bus from Catania Airport. Sais Autolinee offers a direct 2.5-hour connection for about €14. Tickets can be purchased at an airport kiosk near the bus stop. Buses run between 05:00 and 20:00 and go every hour, sometimes even 2x an hour. Check departure times in advance on the Sais Autolinee website.
Palermo is a city full of life and history and is fun to explore on foot. There are beautiful cathedrals and squares in the center. If you love shopping, you can also indulge yourself there. Palermo’s markets, such as Ballarò, Vucciria and Capo, are an explosion of colors, smells and tastes. Here you can buy everything from fresh fish and vegetables to local delicacies.
Palermo itself has no beaches because of its large port. The most accessible and popular beach is Mondello Beach. Take bus 806 from the center of Palermo, and in less than 30 minutes you will be on this popular beach.
Be aware of the crowds: the beach is particularly crowded on weekends, especially the areas protected by beach clubs. For a 2 beds with umbrella you quickly pay €30. After 14:00 is often slightly cheaper. Honestly, I felt like I was at the zoo. There are also freely accessible stretches of beach, but there is often no shade and it is also very crowded.
Do you, like me, also prefer to avoid the crowds? Then I can recommend you to walk a little further to the national park Riserva naturale orientata Capo Gallo, where after paying €1 entrance fee you can enjoy several stretches of rocky beach, often with shade! Not a sandy beach, but a lot quieter and more local. Bring water shoes so you can enter the water more easily.
Foodie tip: Pane con la Milza is a sandwich filled with fried spleen and lung, often served with a dash of lemon juice or ricotta. This iconic street food is not for everyone! But if you think your stomach can handle it, give it a try!
Cefalù
For a day or couple of days of culture and beach, you can also take the train to Cefalù, an hour’s drive from Palermo Centrale. Trains run between 05:00 and 21:00 and a ticket costs about €7 and can be purchased both at the station and through the TrenItalia website.
Cefalù is a charming coastal town with beautiful beaches with clear waters. The beaches are adjacent to the city walls which offer instant shade spots. In the hot summer months, this is really a must! Furthermore, you can enjoy good food and cafes. Climbing the hill up to the castle is also worthwhile (if the weather is not too hot).
Foodie-tip: Ik tried one of the best arancini, fried filled riceballs, at Sfrigola Cefalu. But also the granita and cannoli at Amorelli are worth trying to cool down on a hot day.
Trapani
Trapani is known for its strategic coastal location and rich history. From Palermo you can easily travel to Trapani with the Segesta bus in about 2 hours. Tickets can be bought either online or at one of the ticket offices.
It’s really nice to walk through downtown with narrow streets, baroque churches like the Cattedrale di San Lorenzo, and charming squares. There are plenty of good restaurants and cafes for a cup of coffee or a nice meal. Walk the city walls during sunset for a fantastic view.
The harbor city does not have many beaches, although Spiaggia di San Giuliano to the north is a nice beach to spend some hours relaxing and cooling off in the water.
Another great activity is to take a day trip to the medieval village of Erice, which is located on top of a mountain. A cable car (Funivia Trapani-Erice) goes directly to Erice from Trapani. From the top you have a beautiful view of the city and the coast.
A really cool sight east of Trapani is the Parco Archeologico di Segesta. Here you will find one of the best-preserved Doric temples in Italy and a beautiful ancient open-air theater. It is an absolute must-see for lovers of history and architecture. You can also reach this archaeological park by bus. Bus company Tarantola runs back and forth several times a day. The bus stop is near the Trapani train station. Check the departure times in advance so you won’t have any surprises.
Another must-see near Trapani is the beautiful beach San Vito Lo Capo, known for its clear water, white sand overlooking the mountains. You can get there by AST bus from Trapani.
If you want to get more out of your trip and combine other places, such as the nearby Riserva Naturale Orientata dello Zingaro – a beautiful nature reserve that’s definitely worth a visit – or other out-of-the-way locations, it can be convenient to rent a car in Trapani, even if only for a few days. This gives you more flexibility to travel at your own pace and visit these places more easily.
Foodie tip: In Trapani, try the popular couscous alla trapanese, often served with fish, which is inspired by Sicily’s Arab influences.
Favignana
From Trapani, it’s a must to catch the ferry to Favignana, one of the Egadi Islands. Here you will find true turquoise blue seas. I’ve never seen sea this blue in Europe. Visit all the beautiful coves and beaches on the island. From the Trapani Port you can take LibertyLines directly to the island. You can book a return ticket directly at the port where you already fix the departure times. Do book your boat ticket in high season on time! A day in advance tickets may already be sold out.
Foodie tip: Favignana is famous for its tuna catch, so you can taste the very best here. At Spiaggio Bue Marino you will find the TunaFish food truck where you can get incredibly delicious tuna sandwiches.
Taormina
If you feel like traveling further east in Sicily, Taormina is not to be missed. From Catania you will travel to Taormina in about 1.5 hours. Catania and Palermo are well connected by means of the Sais Autolinee bus line that will take you to the city in a 2.5-hour drive.
Although Taormina is a tourist destination, it remains a beautiful place to explore. The town is built up against a mountain and you can take advantage of a cable car that takes you up and down. The most convenient is to stay at the top near the Porta Messina. Then everything is within easy reach! If you take the cable car down, you will come to Isola Bella, a tiny peninsula with a beach. Isola Bella is just not so “bella” anymore in my opinion. The beach is overrun with people and crammed with restaurants and lounge chairs.
Some locals recommended I take the bus to Letojanni Beach, a budget-friendly option for a relaxing beach day. Buses leave from the square near Porta Messina and a ticket costs a few euros. You can take either the blue line (Interbus) or the green line. Within 15 minutes you are on the beach. The water there is super clear and it is much less crowded than at Isola Bella.
The center of Taormina is also perfect for strolling through, full of hidden alleys and fantastic views of Mount Etna volcano.
It is also highly recommended to visit the Etna volcano. You can do this either with a tour (there are several tour agencies in Taormina, but also in Catania) or on your own with your rental car. There are several hiking trails you can do on your own. I have heard good stories about parking on the south side of Etna at Piazzale Rifugio Sapienza to hike from there on your own around the Silvestri craters. I went on a tour to the Sartorius craters on the northeast side. If you really want to go to the top of Mount Etna, you can only do so with a guide.
Foodie tip: the fertile land around Mount Etna is where most of the pistachio trees grow. Although you can find dishes with pistachio all over the island, there are some local dishes and delicacies in Taormina that you can try such as Pasta al Pistacchio and Granita al Pistacchio.
Useful tips for Sicilië
Traveling by public transport:
- Buses and trains: In my experience, buses in Sicily usually run on time, but it’s always smart to get to the stop a little earlier and allow for delays. For train travel, you can rely on Trenitalia, with regular connections between the larger cities.
- Book tickets on time: Especially in high season, ferries and long-distance bus rides can get booked up quickly. So buy your tickets in advance.
- Google Maps: This is a useful tool to plan your route and check departure times, but always check the transportation company’s website for the most current times.
General tips:
- Keep in mind siesta time: many stores and restaurants close for a few hours in the afternoon.
- At night, cities come alive: it’s cooler and many people are off work. Some cities can really seem like a ghost town during the day, especially on a Sunday.
- Don’t leave without eating something with pistachios: the fertile soil around Etna volcano is used for growing pistachio trees, among other things. So you will find more than enough delicious dishes and desserts with pistachio. Croissants with pistachio filling, cappuccino with pistachio cream, pasta with pistachio pesto, cannoli with pistachio…. and so on.
Conclusion traveling in Sicily by public transport
Traveling by public transportation in Sicily is quite easy to do! There are excellent bus and train connections that take you to many of the most beautiful places on the island, such as Palermo, Taormina, and Trapani, and even impressive sights like the temples of Segesta and the beach at Cefalù. It’s a fine and inexpensive way to get around without worrying about renting a car.
Still, there are limits to where public transportation can take you. If you want to explore the south coast, visit small villages or really enjoy the freedom, a car is definitely handy. It gives you flexibility to choose your own route and quietly stop wherever you want along the way.
So, just want to see the bigger cities and popular spots? Public transportation is a great option. But if you really want the whole Sicily experience, including hidden gems, then a car might be just a little more convenient.
